![]() When placing the screen on the mount you need to push it straight in at the top level and then push down until it locks in place. You may need a routing wire puller to make routing cables in the dash easier. ***To avoid this, just turn each screw in place until it is solid (not loose), but also NOT sticking out the bottom of the mount too far or it will scratch the base when you push it into the dash.ĥ. The aftermarket mount doesn't hold the screws in very well and I had one screw fall into the dash while installing the mount. Also, the OEM mount has clips to hold the screws in place during install/removal. My screw holes were to tight and had to be drilled a tiny bit bigger to allow the screws to screw in easily. Test the screws in the holes BEFORE putting the mount in the dash. You have to transfer the two existing screws from the old screen to the new mount. ![]() Make sure to open the screw hole covers on the back of the screen BEFORE securing it on the mount and plugging in the cables. (I wasted 30 minutes figuring that out)ģ. The display cables should come in through the bottom square hole in the mount and NOT through the holes in the back. (check 6:46 in the video below) Just make sure the cables are sitting in front of the vent assembly BEFORE placing it back in position.(do that last)Ģ. After removing the center console, the internal vent assembly (at the three circle holes) can be moved out of the way to allow easier cable routing.Just gently pull down on it. I routed the GPS through the dash and out the passenger side panel near the door, then up to the window (at the sun shade level)ġ. Just plan your install before hand and find spots to place the GPS, mic, 4G antenna. ![]() I also wrapped ALL of the (in dash) cables with Tesa tape to avoid adding new rattles in my dash. ![]() ![]() The install is fairly easy (plug in stuff), but takes long due to all the cable routing and console + radio disassembly required. ![]()
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